מנדוזה, היום הראשון, 15/12/2007

I woke up early Saturday morning and had my quick hostel breakfast. I walked across Costanera St. and on to J. Vicente Zapata Ave. where I hooked a left onto Rioja St. and caught the number 174 bus to Maipú. After a 35 minute bus ride I stepped off in Coquimbito right in front of the bike rental shop תמונות יובי 129owned by Hugo and his family. I walked into a small yard with tens of bicycles for rent. While standing and listening to Hugo give a speech to a group of tourists I realized that I would also get one if I didn't act fast. In my broken Spanish I talked to Hugo's wife who noticed that I already had a map and was on my toes to get the heck out of there and start my bike ride. She handed me a bottle of water and a bike for exchange of 15 pesos. I checked my bike from A to Z to see that everything was working, climbed on and started my wine tour.

 1 Vina el CernoI rode my bike for about 4.5 km on Urquiza Blvd. and turned left on Perito Moreno Road. After another kilometer I reached Bodega Tempus Alba but to my disappointment it was closed. I didn't expect my wine trip to start with such a disappointment. I continued down the road about 100 more meters and arrived in Bodega Viña El Cerno. For 15 pesos I received two tastings, a Malbec and a Cabernet Sauvignon, which could have been much better. I think they tasted better than they were because I was just so happy to just drink some wine that they could have given me vinegar. While I was paying for the tastings and my first wine bottle opener, Ricardo came over and offered another Cab from 2002. I would have to say this wine was definitely better, fruitier and rounder than the ones before. After feeling better from drinking wine I climbed back on my bicycle and backtracked to Urquiza Blvd.

2 Familia Di Tommaso After riding for about 2 km under a canopy of light green leaves I encountered another winery… such fun. I arrived at Bodega Familiar Di Tommaso. I parked my bike and a nice girl greeted me with a "Buenas Tardés".  She showed me inside the building. I noticed right away that 3 teenagers were hard at work wrapping bottles in brown paper and laying them down inside a small circular brick igloo. תמונות יובי 042 I took some pictures and offered my help, but they refused and kept on working. Annabel sat me down on a long wooden bench and lined up the wine tastings (5 for only 10 pesos). While Annabel poured the wines and I started sniffing the first, she enlightened me with the bodega's history dating back to 1869. My nostrils exploded to the wonderful aromas that I experienced. Annabel told me that this wine is a Torrontés. This was my first encounter with the Torrontés and it was truly amazing. The wine itself was almost clear with aromas of fresh peach, pineapple and lichee. I tasted sweet green grapes with lichee and peaches with a sweet but alcoholic finish. My first Torrontés wine, a truly great experience. I also tasted a young Malbec and 2 reserves, a Malbec and a Cabernet Sauvignon. The Malbec Roble 2004 had aromas of strawberry, raspberry, and a touch of oak while in the mouth I tasted plum and a round smooth oaky finish. For "dessert" I had a shot of their Muscat dessert wine. I said "Muchas gracias" and continued on to Vintandes – Bodegas Y Viñedos. This winery was closed as well so I rode onto Aranda Road. 

I found CarinaE – 4 CarinaEviñedos & bodega and rode in. I rode my bike into the winery's yard where a motion detector alarmed everybody of my presence. I parked my bike and entered a cooled white room where I was greeted by Brigitte. I asked to wash my hands and then sat down with the ventilator straight on me. One of the girls came over with 3 bottles of wine and a glass and placed them on the table. Seeing so many bottles of wine in front of me placed a great big smile on my face. With the owner's golden retriever Bella licking the salt off my toes, I started sniffing my first wine, a rosé made out of Malbec. While I heard the winery's short history, I tasted 2 more young low class wines, a Malbec and their "Octans" 2006 blend (which is only sold at the bodega). I paid my 15 pesos and had Bella escort me to my bike.

I stopped to look at my5 Familia Cecchin map, turned right on Ozamis Road and then a left on M.A. Saez Road and on to Bodegas y Viñedos Familia Cecchin, an organic winery. I walked into a big warehouse where they had big wooden barrels and old pictures covering the walls. I sat down on a high stool and was asked if I wanted to taste some wine. I smiled and said "Claro". I tasted a Moscatel de Alejandria, a Malbec and a surprisingly good Cab with aromas of toast and dried fruit. Here, I didn't have to pay for the tastings so I bought a bottle opener (my 2nd). I didn't have to peddle more than 500 meters before I "bumped" into Bodega Artesanal Roberto Boschi. Their sign was so worn out that I had to ride back a few meters because I missed the turn. I walked into a driveway that also substitutes for the family's playground. I yelled a low "Hello" and a man came out to greet me. With my broken Spanish I relayed that I wanted a small tour and some tastings if they had any.6 Roberto Boschi I was invited into a medium sized room with about 7 big stainless steel tanks and other winery equipment. I don't remember my guide's name but I found out that he is Roberto's son. I asked him where is Roberto and he pointed to the older man who seemed to be hard at work filtering his wine. I was glad to learn that the two girls helping him were his granddaughters. "Roberto Jr.", as I called him, poured me a half full wineglass of Tempranillo straight from the stainless steel tank. The wine had a nice peppery aroma and the same taste with a sour finish. Not a bad wine at all but Roberto Jr. told me that it will be better in about 6 months. This is the first winery where I truly felt the family undertaking of the winemaking profession. I peddled back to Ozamis Road and found a sign of my next destination, Bodega Antonio Nerviani. Unfortunately the bodega was closed so I started heading back to the bike rental shop.

I met Hugo in front olabel 1 (1)f his yard and asked him if Bodega La Rural might still be open. He said I should try because it is just around the corner. I arrived at Bodega La Rural at a few minutes past five in the evening and the place was still stirring. I sneaked onto the end of a tour and blended in very well with my camera flashing everywhere. I tasted a nice chilled Chardonnay and smooth but real flat Cab. I said thank you to the nice group of tour guides and rode back to the bike shop. While waiting for my bus, Hugo wanted to find out exactly what I did and how many wines I tasted. As I climbed on the bus I bid Hugo a "Buenas Noches y muchas gracias" and sat down for the ride back to Mendoza city and my hostel. I had such an amazing first experience. Everybody was so nice and even though I didn't speak Spanish, I could tell that everybody tried their best to make me understand them.


Day 2

אודות יובל

לבלוג זה הביוגרפיה שלי לא כל כך מעניינת כרגע אבל אני כן יספר על איך בעצם נהייתי חובב אוכל ויין (וכמובן גם הרבה דברים אחרים). את מלוא הקרדיט אני חייב בעצם לבעל הבלוג, שמו עודד. הכל התחיל ביום אביבי בצהרים בזמן הלימודים כאשר התבטל לנו שיעור ולא היה כל כך מה לעשות. עידן, אשר יככב בעוד כמה קטעים במהלך הבלוג, הציע שנעלה למשגב עם לבקר את חברינו החדש בסביבה הטבעית שלו. הריחות היו מופלאים למרות שעכשיו אני לא זוכר ממה היו, אבל כפי שאני מכיר את עודד היום זה בטוח היה לחמניות עם עגבניות מיובשות ובזיליקום או עוגיות שוקולד עם אגוזים וצימוקים. ככל מארח טוב עודד הציע לנו משהו לשתות והוא הציע לנו קפרניות. זאת הייתה קפרניה שאני עדיין לא שוכח, ועל בטן ריקה עשתה למצב רוחי נפלאות. המשכנו הלאה לעוד כמה ליקרים כאשר גם בניהם היה לימונצ'לו אלוהי שעודד עשה במו ידיו, משהו מדהים שסובב לי את הראש עוד יותר וכנראה אחד הליקרים שבדיעבד הפעיל אצלי גם כן את יצר היצירה. באיזשהו שלב גם טעמנו פורט מצוין מאוסטרליה, פורט שעד היום עודד מהלל ורוצה ממנו עוד, עקב כך שכנראה סיימתי לו את הבקבוק בשלוק אחד (הדעות בין הנוכחים עדיין שנויות במחלוקת). מלאים בבצק מעולה ואלכוהול מעולה גם כן, בכל זאת היינו חייבים לחזור וללמוד. בשארית היום נכחתי אבל לא באמת הייתי שם. קפיצה הלאה... על האש ראשון עם החבר'ה היה סטייק עין מהסופר ועוד איזה המבורגר בסגנון אמריקאי. אני חושב אחורה וחושב לעצמי על איך לא הקאתי את הג'נקפוד הזה, אני פשוט עדיין לא מאמין שהקיבה שלי עיכלה את ה"בשר" שאכלנו. לאט לאט המושג "חבר'ה" הצטמצם וככל שבילינו קצת יותר זמן ביחד הארוחות שלנו נעשו מהטובות ביותר, כלומר אין בעצם איך לטעות – בשר מעולה, אלכוהול מצוין וחברה אגדית. גם כאן עודד נכנס לתמונה בתור אחד מהמובילים של השינוי הדרסטי באיכות האוכל שבלסנו. אין ספק בעניין כאשר אני אומר שהכל למדתי מעודד. אני גם יודע שיש עוד הרבה יותר שעוד לא למדתי ממנו. במהלך הזמן כמובן שגם לי צצו כמה רעיונות טובים בקשר לכל סוג של אוכל או כל פתיחה של בקבוק יין, אבל בשביל זה כבר תצטרכו להתעמק בכתוב בבלוג. מילה אחרונה – אזהרה. כאשר אתם קוראים את הבלוג בבקשה לסדר דלי לריר שיטפטף, כי אם אתם תקומו ולא תשימו לב אתם תחליקו ותשברו ת'ראש, וחבל.
פורסם בקטגוריה English, ארגנטינה, יין, יקבים, מדריכים, עם התגים . אפשר להגיע לכאן עם קישור ישיר.

השאר תגובה